On the A9 highway that runs from the south to the northern tip of Sri Lanka, we left the last military checkpost, and crossed to the office where the Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam processed our documents to enter Vanni, the area under their control.
This was 2002 and those few steps felt like they separated two different nations. Most of Sri Lanka was a familiar democracy. A feisty media, activists who hotly debated rights issues, citizens with varied political loyalties, discussions o